onbeauty: runway 2012

Balmain RTW Fall 2012

More is more, and then some. It’s a school of thought that Balmain’s 
Olivier Rousteing clearly subscribed to for fall, with dazzling results,
 literally. He amped up the flash with a bold lineup that explored 
surface ornamentation, taking it to the nth degree. He piled on the 
embroidery and embellishment — pearls, crystals, studs, upholsterylike 
quilting and needlepoint florals, often in the same piece — for jackets,
 tops and formfitting dresses. 

Christian Dior RTW Fall 2012

While he described his message as “soft modernity,” the words “soft 
and classical” make a more apt handle. A subtle but telling difference, 
as Gaytten’s lineup linked clearly but not dangerously to the New Look, 
focusing on a cinched-waist, often belted, full-skirted silhouette. 

Sonia Rykiel RTW Fall 2012

“Paris in the effervescent Seventies,” 
according to the show notes, was a period during which Sonia Rykiel 
blossomed, her iconic style — the oversize coats, the charming knits and
 the signature red frizz — making its mark on the fashion scene. That 
moment inspired creative director April Crichton, though exactly how 
remained unclear.

See by Chloé RTW Fall 2012

Dirk Bikkembergs RTW Fall 2012

For
the most part, this was a collection of snappy sportswear, in the
bright green of football pitches, marigold yellow, purple, and blue. The
highlight was a thickly striped sweatshirt with short sleeves and low
armholes that gave it an urban spin. 

A medley of influences, including toy 
soldiers, party girls and what looked to be motocross rangers, marched 
through the fall Moschino collection. Backstage before the show, 
designer Rossella Jardini described the lineup as “a parade” — complete 
with a snare drum soundtrack — indirectly acknowledging that the Sixties
 military jackets; streamlined, color-blocked knit tops and leggings and
 the taffeta pouf dresses inspired by Peter Seller’s “Pink Panther” 
looked like they belonged to different collections entirely.

Meadham Kirchhoff Fall 2012 RTW



After shaking up London with their 
runway hijinks for several seasons, Edward Meadham and Benjamin 
Kirchhoff went for a more classic show this time — although the clothes 
were as quirky as ever. A real glitter fest, there were sequined 
pantsuits and patchwork furs, tinsel-fringed boleros, striped Lurex 
tights and sparkling Seventies platform shoes.

Derek Lam RTW Fall 2012

Fall was a solid
 collection for Derek Lam. Stocked with great clothes, the lot of it 
could go straight onto the sales floor. And that’s not a backhanded 
compliment meant to imply it was editorially ho-hum. Rather Lam worked a
 fashion-forward yet understandable look that felt very now — and the 
right amount of then, too, with a nod to mid-Nineties Prada.

Charlotte Ronson offered up a Fall 2012 collection rich
 in dark plums, maroon, hunter green and camel. Take a look at the 
entire runway show, here.

NYFW - Creatures of the Wind Fall 2012 RTW

                    
                    Shane Gabier and Chris Peters picked up a runner-up prize from the CFDA/Vogue
 Fashion Fund last November. The Chicago-based duo is no doubt getting 
advice from all sides now on how to turn their tiny label into a 
thriving bigger business. In a preview of their Fall collection they 
pointed to new pieces with more-accessible-than-usual price tags, like 
stripey mohair sweaters, silk slipdresses made in collaboration with 
Araks Yeramyan, and an A-line popover top in clashing prints (which, 
admittedly, was paired with a skirt made of expensive French brocade). 
But standing in the crowd today in the refectory of the Desmond Tutu 
Center in Chelsea (a stunning room), it was clear that they aren't 
compromising an inch on their unique, offbeat vision. Read the full review here.