Christian Dior RTW Fall 2012

Christian Dior RTW Fall 2012

While he described his message as “soft modernity,” the words “soft and classical” make a more apt handle. A subtle but telling difference, as Gaytten’s lineup linked clearly but not dangerously to the New Look, focusing on a cinched-waist, often belted, full-skirted silhouette.

Isabel Marant RTW Fall 2012

Isabel Marant RTW Fall 2012

As WWD reported Friday, business has been booming for Isabel Marant, whose carefree-yet-cool street wear attitude has hit big at retail. No reason to veer too far from what’s been working right now. Her fall collection boiled down to rewiring her signature motifs for a new theme. This time it was late 19th-century cowgirls, the pioneering type, who were feminine but built tough — a great fit for Marant’s look.

Sonia Rykiel RTW Fall 2012

Sonia Rykiel RTW Fall 2012

“Paris in the effervescent Seventies,” according to the show notes, was a period during which Sonia Rykiel blossomed, her iconic style — the oversize coats, the charming knits and the signature red frizz — making its mark on the fashion scene. That moment inspired creative director April Crichton, though exactly how remained unclear.