onbeauty: Gucci RTW Fall 2012

Gucci RTW Fall 2012

“Romanticism — literally speaking, of the 19th century.” That was 
Frida Giannini’s starting point for her fall Gucci collection. It worked
 like a charm of the seductive, rather than sweet, variety. She chose a 
palette moody with color (dark maroons, greens and navys) and fabrics 
with flourish; high-drama brocades and jacquards formed the base, worked
 in combination with velvet, fur, silk and leather.

Gucci RTW Fall 2012

There was a poetic practicality to Giannini’s tailoring. She focused a
 great deal of attention on day clothes — real, functioning day clothes —
 worn in texturally intense layerings that evoked the literary dandy 
without looking silly. In their combinations and controlled swagger, 
some were informed by the language of Saint Laurent. Opening the show: a
 boxy structured jacket with a vague military effect over a long velvet 
skirt. This was just one of numerous strong outerwear pieces that ranged
 from a languid velvet trench to an alpaca-lined knitted mink and 
grandly proportioned cape. 

Gucci RTW Fall 2012

Grounding the opulence were equestrian 
references in jodhpurlike pants and flat riding boots. On the softer 
side, lean dresses were inset in velvet front panels and waistbands; 
some flaunted explosions of huge florals. 

Gucci RTW Fall 2012

For evening, Giannini showed iridescent feathers, languid velvets
 and six silk chiffon gowns with mesmerizing 3-D embroideries. Actually,
 they were versions of the same look, as if the designer was indicating 
to someone still undecided about her Oscars dress how the broodingly 
glamorous number could be tweaked just for her.