Marc Jacobs Ignored More of the CFDA’s Model Guidelines |
Marc Jacobs cast two underage models in his fall 2012 show, a
decision that was widely criticized for flouting the CFDA's
recommendation that models under 16 not be hired for shows (Jacobs
recently became a CFDA board member, which made things look even worse).
At the time, Jacobs defended his choice by stating, "There are children
actors and children models for catalogs and stuff, so I guess if a
parent thinks it’s O.K. and a kid wants to do it, it’s fine."
While the child performers Jacobs mentions are exempt from mainstream
labor laws, rules and guidelines do lay out acceptable working
practices. Many such rules limit the hours children and teens can work,
either during a day or just at one time; during Fashion Week
specifically, the CFDA's guidelines suggest models under the age of 18
are not kept working past midnight.
In her first season at New York Fashion Week, 17-year-old Hailey Hasbrook told WWD
she worked long past midnight as a "looks model" (better known as a fit
model) for Jacobs on two consecutive occasions — with 2 a.m. and 4:30
a.m. ending times, respectively. Jezebel found more details of the
grueling schedule on her Tumblr. On her first night with Jacobs and his
team, Hasbrook worked a 6 p.m. to 2 a.m. shift, two hours past the
CFDA's "curfew." After an 11 a.m. casting the following morning, Jacobs
called her in again. Writes Hasbrook:
Sunday was a VERY hectic and LOOOOONGG day…..It started with a casting for Rodarte at 11:00 in the morning.Then, I had MORE looks for Marc Jacobs. The SCHEDULED time was Noon-4:30. They ended up keeping me until 6:00, though, causing me to have to switch around my schedule and cancel some things...I get a call from my agency saying Marc wants me BACK to do more looks. They told him that I would do it but I had to have an early night because I had shows early the next morning. They told me that I shouldn't be there any later than 10:30.Well, 10:30 rolls around and I ask Shawn if he knows when I will be ready to leave. Only to find out that they have me booked open-ended. Meaning that they had no specific end time for me. After a couple phone calls, they decided on 2:00 am.Well, 2:00 rolls around ... I hadn't been trying things on for a while so we all thought I would be good to go. I go and start to get dressed only to be called for in the other room by Marc.I didn't end up leaving until around 4:30 in morning.
That's 4:30 a.m. Monday morning — the fall Marc Jacobs show walked promptly at 8 p.m.
that same evening. Hasbrook also booked Marc by Marc Jacobs. Despite
the long and likely tedious hours, Hasbrook says the experience "was
actually a lot of fun," the design team was "super awesome and nice,"
and meeting Marc Jacobs himself "was cool." But despite the job's
entertainment value, she didn't get paid for her work on either
show: Instead, she received clothing in trade.
While this is common for runway models, it's unusual for a fit model to work basically for free. Jezebel's Jenna Sauers
labels the unpaid labor "bullshit," and rails particularly against
Jacobs and LVMH for their decision to expect girls to work for free in
light of their multibillion dollar net profits. (She also notes that in
Paris, where Jacobs shows his designs for Louis Vuitton, models are paid — French labor laws mandate it.)
A presumably testy Marc Jacobs (or someone in charge of his Twitter feed) has already tweeted a response
to the story: "Models are paid in trade. If they don't want to work w/
us, they don't have to." It's a flippant argument, and one that holds
little weight. Be they social, professional, or financial, the pressures
most models (particularly those new to the industry) are under
certainly make the question of whether to work with Marc Jacobs a
rhetorical one.
via nymag
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