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| Versace RTW Fall 2012 |
With their bangs bluntly razored an inch beneath the hairline, eyebrows
bleached and cheekbones lit like knives, the models in the Versace show
looked like the kind of girls you find at ease in a nameless afterhours
club — or in an Oscar-nominated performance by Rooney Mara. And that was
just from the neck up. Below, the clothes were all gothic drama and
underground kink, as Donatella Versace turned on the dark for fall. Not
even her high glamour gloss of crystals and articulated curves (both
here in spades) could file down the edge.
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| Versace RTW Fall 2012 |
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| Versace RTW Fall 2012 |
To see the designer depart from the levity and exacting polish of her
recent collections, not to mention the Versace homage that’s been
happening in fashion at large, was a good feeling. The show opened with
two black velvet dresses — one covered up, one bare — both embroidered
with leather Byzantine crosses, a recurring motif. Versace played it big
— blaring and bejeweled smack in the middle of a corset — and small,
crafting a breastplate out of laser cut black on a fitted and flared
moto jacket that was sleekly executed. But things got silly where the
crosses were used as colorful prints, which segued to letters that
spelled V-E-R-S-A-C-E all over dresses. Such gothic glitz relates to the
house vernacular for sure, but shown so blatantly it bore the look of a
secondary collection, not because it looked cheap, but too flagrant.
Giant letter-block prints don’t play well on designer turf.
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| Versace RTW Fall 2012 |
More daring, more sex-charged and more modern was the use of chainmail,
which signaled a whiff of savage crusader that also turned up on dresses
traced with coarse, laced seams around the bodice. It was relatively
modest as a T-shape along the shoulders of loose shift dresses, and
chicly illicit on side panels of clingy dresses, including a finale of
silver columns veiled in open, metal mesh.
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| Versace RTW Fall 2012 |
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| Versace RTW Fall 2012 |
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| Versace RTW Fall 2012 |
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| Versace RTW Fall 2012 |
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| Versace RTW Fall 2012 |
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| Versace RTW Fall 2012 |
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| Versace RTW Fall 2012 |
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| Versace RTW Fall 2012 |
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| Versace RTW Fall 2012 |
source. WWD
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