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Kate Phelan brought 18 years of experience at British Vogue to
Topshop's in-house design team when she joined the retail behemoth as
creative director last June. It showed in today's collection. The way
that structure and slouch were combined to create something edgy but
accessible had the fingerprints of an expert stylist all over it. "Relax
it, mix it up" were Phelan's straightforward goals, and the design team
took them to heart. The khaki officer's coat that opened the show set
the pace for dramatically scaled outerwear with a strong utilitarian
bent.More after the jump!
But the scale carried over into big shirts slipping off shoulders,
and full hip-slung skirts. Outfits mixed fabrics—like the pants that
were leather in front, wool in back, or the green felt dress with the
leather bodice. The element of surprise was a distinct asset.
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| Topshop Unique Fall 2012 RTW |
The utility theme was elaborated on in military and workwear touches,
like the serried ranks of crosses that were the collection's major
visual motif, or the thick-soled, spike-heeled "army" boots, or the
dungaree details. Phelan said another aim was "From runway to reality,"
and the forceful, somber-colored looks shown here could certainly have
marched straight off the catwalk and onto a big city street. But it was
actually a blessed relief to be thrown a frivolous bone at show's end,
when a handful of glittery party dresses eased on down the road. A
backless sequined shift with a netting overlay had a poppy little kick
of the sixties, to go with the Jane Birkin hair. That, too, spoke of the
seasoned stylist's eye for detail.
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source. style.com
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