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Anne Sofie Madsen, annesofiemadsen.com |
Relatively new to the scene, this former apprentice at both John
Galliano for Dior and Alexander McQueen showed intricately textured
designs and surreal prints that spoke volumes about her innovative eye
and promising future as a designer.
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Bruuns Bazaar, bruunsbazaar.dk
This sleek, incredibly wearable collection from Danish design team Teis
and BjØrn Bruunv was heavy on separates in a beautiful palette of white,
rich green, light blue, and pink that deviated—refreshingly—from the
black that dominated much of the CFW runway.
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Kamilla Hoffmann, madeinschool.dk
Part of the Designers’ Nest show of student work, Hoffmann, a student at
Kunstakademits Designskole, showed a strong series of layered knits in
terrific patterns (and great riding-inspired hats) in saturated
monochromatic hues of green, blue, and red.
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Emma Hanseklint
Another standout from the Designers’ Nest student show, Hanseklint, a
student a Beckmans College of Design, played with shades of green and
with texture in her three pieces. The long angora sweater was a
particular standout.
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Trine Engebretsen, trine-engebretsen.blogspot.com
Engebretsen, a student from Teko Center Danmark, showed a beautifully
crafted series at the Designers’ Nest show. The architectural stripes
and waves added a delicate volume that, thanks to her great sense of
fit, didn’t overwhelm the models, but rather accentuated their form.
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Eva-Maria Suviste, notjustalabel.com
Another student from Teko Center Danmark, Suviste’s presentation at
Designers’ Nest was striking. The “x-ray” series managed to be ethereal,
slightly unsettling, ladylike, and very wearable—both hard and soft.
Quite promising.
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Vivi Raila, viviraila.carbonmade.com
From the Aalto University of Art and Design Helsinki, Raila’s work at
the Designers’ Nest show stood out for its whimsical delicacy—a gorgeous
yellow ombre, white appliqué work on net, and religiously-themed black
embroidery. There’s a romantic feel, but the methods and subject matter
keep it current.
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Henrik Vibskov, henrikvibskov.com
Known as the enfant terrible of the Copenhagen design scene, Vibskov’s
runway shows are typically spectacles of epic proportions. This season's
presentation took place in the old Carlsburg factory outside of the
city, an abandoned warehouse outfitted with a Seussian white contraption
that, when the models walked on certain panels, would cause mallets to
hit a series of drums. It was strange and wonderful, just like the
knit-and-print-heavy collection, which should also take the award for
best headgear.
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By Malene Birger, bymalenebirger.com
It was clear even before the show started—chandeliers hung overhead,
tables with ice buckets of Moet dotted the front row—that designer
Malene Birger was a seasoned vet. Her eponymous collection has been
around for 2003, selling at her flagships around Europe and
net-a-porter.com, and it's no wonder: Her ladylike pieces managed to be
wearable, sexy, and tough, and her introduction of vibrant blues and
greens to an otherwise neutral collection was spot-on.
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Rützou, rutzou.com
Susanne Rützou's collection made its mark with a spectacular series of
chunky, dramatic, knotted necklaces in every shape and color imaginable
that punctuated her otherwise more simple, edited collection. Heavy on
the bijoux, the collection was a tribute to the iconic Iris Apfel.
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Sand, sand-europe.com |
An incredibly polished showing that could have held its weight on a New
York runway, this collection, from Lene and Soren Sand (who have been
designing since the eighties) really stood out for its menswear.
Precisely tailored suits, knits, coats, and slim pants in riding boots
stole the show, while a series of womens wear separates in bold oranges
and reds were a knockout.
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Soulland, soulland.eu
Slightly offbeat but still wearable, this collection from Soulland,
inspired by “A journey to Moscow before the fall of the Iron Curtain,”
made its biggest statement with interesting prints: one made from a
collage of Russian prison tattoos, and one based on decorative borders
from invitations to the Tsar’s palace mixed with classic knit patterns.
via wmagazine |
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