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| Dries Van Noten RTW Fall 2012 |
Dries Van Noten has a well-established love of exotica, typically
expressed via his innovative use of prints. He is also among the
increasingly few designers who give their runways over primarily to
daywear — real, unapologetic daywear that could, aside from the
editorial flourish or two, make a speedy segue from runway to street. In
the collection he showed on Wednesday, Van Noten again fused those two
core elements to ultrachic effect.
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| Dries Van Noten RTW Fall 2012 |
The designer has a particular gift for functioning flamboyance.
Back in October, he started scouring the Victoria & Albert Museum
for historical Chinese, Japanese and Korean costumes. He then
photographed the actual garments — robes, coats, skirts — for
large-scale prints that he cut into various pieces to create graphic
blocks on the clothes. The side of a lavishly patterned oriental coat
became the decorative motif for a skirt; parts of an Eastern skirt, the
pattern on a blouse. Sometimes one big, bold graphic made the case,
while at others, it was an interesting patchwork.
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| Dries Van Noten RTW Fall 2012 |
The technique worked beautifully for silk skirts and dresses. Its
daring transfer to coats and jackets transported mannish tailoring from
sensible to sensational. Van Noten took respites from the prints to
detail some pieces with grand embroideries of cranes and a phoenix, and
continued the men’s wear mood with a rugged parka in plasticized velvet.
Rather than jar, the visual bravado radiated womanly self-assurance.
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| Dries Van Noten RTW Fall 2012 |
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| Dries Van Noten RTW Fall 2012 |
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| Dries Van Noten RTW Fall 2012 |
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| Dries Van Noten RTW Fall 2012 |
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| Dries Van Noten RTW Fall 2012 |
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| Dries Van Noten RTW Fall 2012 |
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| Dries Van Noten RTW Fall 2012 |
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| Dries Van Noten RTW Fall 2012 |
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| Dries Van Noten RTW Fall 2012 |
source. WWD
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