Alexa Chung she has substance - and not just style - for Vogue UK ethical special |
Wonderful that
Vogue
is devoting six pages to an 'ethical special' this month
with Alexa Chung acting as the postergirl for the growing army of women
who care about how and where our clothes are made, in just the same way
we make decisions about the food we buy at the supermarket - or should I
say, the local farmer's market. And even better, for us who cannot buy the english Edition of the Fashion Magazine, Fashion Telegraph decided to do a piece on it. More after the jump.
Chung is not claiming to be any kind of
green goddess. Who can? But she is voicing an increasing awareness
among women - and men - to question what and how they buy.
Alexa Chung - Vogue UK april 2012 |
'I was first made aware of the appalling conditions factory workers
are often forced to work under while filming a documentary in 2008 for
Channel 4,' she writes. The idea was 'to recreate a sweatshop
environment in a makeshift Covent Garden factory, in which we then
invited high-street shoppers to work. Most grumbled about the dirty
water, sweltering heat, poor pay and forced overtime. A good few quit
almost instantly. Questionable ethics isn't the only disturbing factor
in the production of the clothes I love. Ecologically sound brands try
to limit the vast carbon footprint that production and distribution
create, while fair-trade brands ensure that nobody in the creative chain
is taken advantage of financially.'
Alexa Chung - Vero Moda |
In an ideal world, all of these things would be taken as read and
Vogue
wouldn't need to single out specialist brands who are
doing the right thing in their own little ethical ghetto.
And it has to
be said, things are getting better. The high street is being forced to
conform to regulations on carbon footprint, factory conditions and pay.
The next generation of designers are leaving college knowing that too
many clothes are being dumped in landfill every year. Whether they
choose to do anything about it is up to them.
It seems the all round solution is for us to buy less, choose more
thoughtfully - Chung says she has a mental checklist whenever she buys
anything; if she can't style it three ways, she usually doesn't buy -
and, where possible to recycle, swap, thrift, or buy from designers like
the brilliant Christopher Raeburn who produce well-made clothes that
will last, made with upcycled or locally sourced materials in small
batches.
Alexa Chung - Vero Moda |
'I for one,' admits Chung, 'am all too often guilty of pointless
purchases that don't make it beyond one or two outings. It is unlikely,
for example, that those Primark espadrilles or Topshop shorts will be
handed down to future generations as my grandmother's fur coat and
dresses were to me.' Chung's own style icons including Patti Smith,
Debbit Harry and Francoise Hardy wear the same things like a uniform
until they fall to pieces.
Problem is, we also - like Chung - love fashion. And that means new stuff. That's why we are reading
Vogue
in the first place. What would be really wonderful is
for the industry itself to take a deep breath and slow down so that we
don't feel quite so much pressure to change the colour of handbags quite
so often and for 'ethical' fashion not to have to be pigeonholed but
its principles embraced by everyone from the high street up, and not
just the chosen few. Oh and yes, Alexa, that organic cotton shirt looks
great and so do the red jaquard fairtrade shorts.
Tamsin Blanchard
via fashion.telegraph
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